Ancient Egypt
Elements of its Cultural History

  by Sjef Willockx

 
 


Buying souvenirs in Egypt
(extended & updated: November
, 2008)

When you are in Egypt, on perhaps the most satisfying holiday of a lifetime, everything will look better, feel better, and taste better than at home, leaving lasting impressions. We want however to take something more tangible than memories home with us, so we set out to buy some souvenirs. Not without hesitation, though... We are now in a strange and mysterious land, with different and unfamiliar customs. How do we go about, how do we avoid either making a fool of ourselves, or insult the locals?
This little introduction is the fruit of six journeys to Egypt (mostly to Luxor), one week each. I still make mistakes: coming home to find I've bought terrible stuff for too high a price - but I am doing better now than the first time. So maybe my experience can be of some use to you.

In passing this along, I also hope to have a positive effect on the Egyptian souvenir business as a whole. In the end, a mature market place, where buyers and sellers have the same information, will benefit all. Margins will go down, but with higher customer satisfaction, sales volumes will go up, allowing for more local production, and higher labor participation. And most important of all: tourists that feel that they are being treated fairly may decide to come back again next year - instead of trying Mexico or Thailand for a change.... 
 

Ways to travel

The way you travel will affect your opportunities. It makes quite a difference, whether you travel in a group, or on your own.

Traveling in groups
Most tourists travel Egypt in organized groups – and if you lack any experience outside Milwaukee or Newark-on-Trent, this is not such a bad idea. If you pay attention though, you can come back a second time on your own. Egypt may look a bit strange to the inexperienced, but it is basically a civilized country.
One
major disadvantage of traveling in a group is, that you have to follow the guide – not only to the sites, but also to the shops of his uncles and nephews, where you will be treated fair, and where the prices are good.
Bringing in groups will earn your guide a handsome commission. (Even those who speak very little English perfectly understand the word "commission".) The number of available shops to choose from is so large, that he can do his picking as he pleases. It is only natural that he will favor those shops, that pay him most. And it is just as natural, that you will repay that commission to the shop keeper.
These practices are looked upon with intense sorrow by the “independent” merchants in the town bazaars. With ever less tourists traveling
on their own, their shops remain empty.

Traveling on your own
If you do travel alone, or manage to get away from the group to do a little shopping on your own, strolling through a bazaar, you will soon enough discover that a shop keeper will always try to persuade you to come into his shop. Once inside, he has far better options for influencing you. He will offer you a seat and some tea, be polite and friendly, and thereby create an atmosphere in which it would be rude to simply walk away again. If you except his hospitality for more than say five minutes, it will be really hard not to buy anything.
(Sometimes, he can be so persistent that he actually blocks your way out. If you do not want to physically brush him aside, slowly raising your voice is an excellent alternative.
If there is one thing that nobody wants here, it is to attract attention...)
On the other hand, as long as you are sitting in his shop, he can not entertain other guests. If you stall, taking more of his time than he expected, and if more customers arrive, he may even get a bit jumpy, finally accepting your “ridiculous” offer just to get rid of you.


The merchandise

"Antiquities"
Your chances of being offered “genuine antiquities” is almost 100 %. If you just ponder a little on this, you may be able to figure it out for yourself...
Still need some help? Well, consider this. First of all, in Egypt it is not only illegal to export antiquities, but also to sell them. No shop keeper in his right mind would take chances selling to tourists – who are in the final analysis strangers that one knows nothing about.
Secondly, the best prices will be paid by wealthy collectors who can actually appreciate the merchandise. Tourists that can’t tell real from fake may be persuaded into buying something, but not likely for the prices that art collectors will pay for the real thing.
Another point to consider is, that "antiquities" are in fact not all that difficult to make. I have watched a modern-day artist make an ancient Egyptian relief on a piece of limestone in a matter of minutes. When the stone is freshly cut, it is still so soft that it can be carved with a penknife. To further ease the work, the stone is wet with some water. Even intricate details spring from the stone in unbelievable speed.
It looked quite nice. It was then treated with a water-based brown paint, to make it look older. And then it looked very convincing indeed. It would of course never fool an expert, but Mrs. Jackson from Poughkeepsie will be ever so pleased with it.
The upside of all this is, that there is no risk attached to buying these “antiquities” – that is: no other risk than paying too much. If you don’t pay more than you would for any “modern” souvenir, you should be o.k.

"Hand made"
Perhaps the most frequently used recommendation in the shops is: "It's hand made!..." Personally, I couldn't care less if it were made by foot, as long as it looks good, but your salesman will use it as a valid argument to ask a ridiculous price. In Egypt though, manual labor is actually cheaper than making something with a machine. And not every person who can make something with his hands is a gifted artisan. The machine made stuff not rarely exceeds the hand made in quality.
What is really the most annoying about the assertion of things being hand made, is that it so often is false. If you want to make a point of it, ask the man if he has more specimen of what you're looking at. Not to worry: he instantly puts five more on the counter. Then you can leisurely point out with what remarkable accuracy the artisan has in each and every copy made the same little mistake...



The
materials

Gold
Gold
comes in many qualities, or rather: grades, or caratages. Pure gold ("24 carat gold") is way too soft to use in jewelry: that's why it will always be mixed with other metals, mostly with silver and copper. Gold alloys used in jewelry will vary between 8 carat (33,3%) and 22 carat (91,7 %) gold content.
The main problem with gold is, that a lay person can simply not distinguish between these various alloys. By increasing the relative amount of copper in the alloy, the color can be manipulated towards a darker shade of yellow, to compensate for the "dilution" in color resulting from a lower gold percentage. When the gold has a particularly warm, reddish color, this may be an indication of an excessive proportion of copper. On the other hand, 18 carat gold can be quite red, too, when most of the 25 % non-gold in the alloy is copper.
There is a lot of gold in the shops, but I am glad that it doesn't suit my budget.

Silver
Silver is not
a really expensive commodity, so I did not expect too much problems there... Wrong, wrong, wrong...
Last year, I bought a small silver pendant. I specifically asked whether it was massive silver, or silver plated. No: look at the hallmark, here on the back: this is real, massive silver.
Coming home, and looking at it under more favorable lighting conditions, I saw something on the front side that I had missed before. The image was that of a goddess with outstretched wings. In the grooves between the feathers, several darker, yellow lines were visible: the brass over which a thin silver coating had been applied. Conned again!
Both annoyed and intrigued, I did some research about the Egyptian hallmarking system. I discovered that Egypt is one of relatively few countries to have such a system, both for gold and silver, but I could not make out what its legal status is (whether it is compulsory or not). An official hallmark will consist of three different, square markings, positioned next to one another, in a row. From left to right, these are:

  • An assay mark: this indicates both the city of assay, and the percentage of pure metal.

  • A national mark. For silver, this is a lotus flower.

  • And a date letter: an Arabic letter that indicates in what year the object was assayed.

Any other type of marking may be fancy all right, but it will only serve as a guarantee that the object in question has not been properly assayed.

Gems
I am not aware of any other area of trade, in which there is so much fraud and fake as in gems. Everyone knows about the use of glass or quartz crystals for diamonds, but that’s just kids’ stuff. Greed and ingenuity, nowadays supplemented with excellent skills in chemistry and physics, provide an incredible array of techniques to fool the peasants. And when it comes to a
highly technical, specialized trade like this one, we are all peasants.
If you like to cherish your illusions, don’t ever read a technical book about gems. You would learn that stones can be made synthetically, or pressed from powdered stone-dust. Some stones can be heated to change their color, others can be treated with chemicals for the same reason, or even dyed. For stones mounted in e.g. a ring, the spectrum gets even wilder. Mounted stones can be combined: a thin colored stone on top of a larger colorless one, to give the appearance of a large colored stone. This is called a doublet, but there are also triplets: made from three layers of stone. A stone can be painted at its backside, or fitted with reflective foil to enhance its color. And lastly, stones can be swapped endlessly: for every valuable stone, there are several cheaper look-alikes. For some sorts, up to 8 or 10 “alternatives” are known. And it can even get worse: some “stones” are not stones at all, but just synthetic resin.
Really, I don’t think I’ll ever trust a salesman of gems again. Even if he is honest, he may be fooled himself.

Turquoise
In Egypt, you'll see turquoise jewelry in astonishing numbers, all in the right, splendid "turquoise" color, mounted in either gold or silver. It all looks hauntingly beautiful, but until recently, I steered well away from it. Last year, I finally bought a piece, with the express purpose of having it checked at home by an expert. No surprises: it was fake.
In hindsight, I should have known from the start. Just look in any book about gems: real turquoise just isn't that uniform in color and appearance. This all too perfect appearance of the "stone", in combination with prices that for real turquoise just wouldn't be possible, give the scam away.
It turned out that my "stone" was not even stone at all: it was "a kind of resin".
 

Lapis Lazuli
Even the ancient Egyptians used imitation for lapis: faience. And even they knew that there was more fake around than the real thing: they consistently spoke of “true lapis lazuli”.
Lapis lazuli is actually a mixture of several minerals. Highest valued is a deep, even blue stone, studded with very fine, almost invisible specks of ”gold”: pyrite. More pyrite, and strands of white calcite, reduce the value of the stone considerably. This means that stones that abound in pyrite and/or calcite have a better chance of being real. But even then, the “stone” may actually be made of loose material or powder (debris from the mining process), pressed or cemented together. Lapis can also be made synthetically in a variety of ways. (A synthetic stone is a stone that has the same physical characteristics as the original, but it comes from a laboratory instead of from the inside of the earth).
My guess
is though, that in souvenir shops, most lapis in jewels such as pendants and rings will only share the color with the original, and that most lapis ornaments (such as small pyramids and obelisks) may be of stone all right, but not of lapis: neither real, nor synthetic. Like with the turquoise, its appearance is just too uniform. Two and a half square feet of lapis souvenirs of exactly the same deep blue color: it's too good to be true. Which of course means that it isn't true.

"Moon stone"
This very pretty “stone” has a brown color, evenly studded with bright shining specs of “gold”. You will find lots of small pyramids, obelisks, crosses, hearts and whatever made of it – but never a piece of raw material. Nor will you ever come across an ancient Egyptian artifact made of it. There is a very good reason for both: it doesn’t come from a mine, and it was only invented in the 20th century. It is made somewhere in Italy, and apparently no-one knows exactly how or from what. But it definitely is artificial.

Onyx
Real onyx is a fine gemstone. When it has uniform color, it is called chalcedony, when it is striped or banded, it is called agate. In Luxor however, the souvenir shops sell dishes, bowls and vases of “onyx”, weighing up to several kilo’s, for prices that are comparable to those for earthenware. You don’t have to be an expert, to know that here, the merchandise is not as advertised.
What they sell as onyx, is really onyx marble. “Onyx marble” is an internationally accepted term, although it is neither onyx, nor marble. It is a type of limestone.
Nevertheless, it is real stone, and the vessels in question are handsomely made, with beautiful intense colors. Even the prices are o.k. Just don’t put a vase on your window sill though: it may discolor in as little as a few months.
So perhaps this “onyx” is not even onyx marble: perhaps it’s just dyed alabaster... (Actually, the intense colors are the give-away: natural colors just aren’t so bright, and certainly not so uniformly bright.)

Alabaster
There is so much alabaster to be found in Egypt, that there is really no need to fake it. That’s the good news: what is sold as alabaster, will probably be just that. And it is still as pretty a stone as it was 5000 years ago, so the weight limit of your airline ticket should be your only concern. Just remember that it should be cheap: less than the price you would pay at home for earthenware.

A special case are the so-called “alabaster shops” or “alabaster factories”. These thrive on the bus-loads that are brought in by your nice guide, so that he may earn his commission.
I was offered there two varieties of vessels (especially vases), labeled “hand made” and “machine made”, respectively. The “hand made” was cut from the inside to make it as thin as possible. With a light inside it, or behind it, this produces a nice translucent effect. The “machine made” variety was just hollowed out vertically with a mechanical drill, producing much thicker and heavier pieces.
In spite of the condescending
comments by the salesperson about the machine made stuff, this actually resembles the original ancient Egyptian vessels much more closely than the “hand made” ones. If you take a look inside those, you can see that their inner surface is so uneven and coarse from all the probing and cutting, that it would not be suitable for storing anything . And the ancient Egyptians made alabaster vessels for storing ointments and unguents: not for holding electric light bulbs.

Basalt
Your chances of coming across something made of real basalt outside a museum are very, very slim indeed. This is not because basalt is so expensive, but because resin is so cheap. All those nice black cats, monkeys and scarabs of “basalt” are actually made of synthetic resins: mass produced in molds. Kids walk the streets with two pieces of it in either hand, banging them together in front of your eyes, shouting “basalt! basalt!” I suppose this means earlier fakes were made of gypsum, painted black. Banging two pieces of that together would cause chips to come off, revealing the white underneath. So the new fake is much superior: it
won’t flake. (If you want to do a test: put the point of a knife on the surface underneath, and twist it around a bit. If it is basalt, this will ruin your knife – but I don’t think it will...)

Granite
Even the granite is fake. All those stout busts of Nefertiti and king Tut from “pink granite” have never seen the inside of a quarry. Again: this is resin, mass produced in molds. But it is really hard to tell: even when you turn them over, and look at the “undressed” bottom side, it looks very convincing. It is also quite heavy – not so heavy as the real thing, but who can tell? What was the last time you had a granite bust in your hands? The feel will give the scam away though: what is lacking is that distinct, cold and hard feel of true stone.

Carpets
Not being terribly interested in carpets, I’ve stayed clear from carpet shops, carpet factories and carpet schools. The carpet schools are an interesting phenomenon though.
In the countryside around Cairo, there must be hundreds of these. I have been told by locals, that poor farmer families send their young children there, “to bring in a little money”. Perhaps the kids learn to read and write, too, but making carpets (euphemistically designated as “learning to make carpets”: hence “carpet schools”) certainly is the main course.

Perfumes
Good perfumes basically consist of two (types of) components: a fragrance (often made of dozens, even up to a hundred different elements), and a fixative. The fixative intensifies the scent, and preserves it on the skin for hours.
The perfumes that you will buy in the perfume shops will lack the fixative. The fragrance may be gone in as little as half an hour.
The quality of the fragrance is still another matter. When you come home, and compare it with “the real thing”, it is not that difficult to tell the difference.

If you don't see something: don't ask for it!
For if you do, the shop owner will quickly dispatch a boy out on the street, duly instructed to go fetch what you want. But goods that travel, become more expensive. You'll have to pay two margins now instead of one: one for the original shop owner, and one for your helpful salesman.


The merchants

It is well known, that oriental businessmen will expect a game of bargaining – and we all expect them to be better at this game, than we are. But we really have no idea, how much better they are... Logic dictates, that you should be able to buy a souvenir, made in Egypt, in Egypt for a lower price than you would have to pay at home. To actually achieve this though, is no easy task. So first a few basics:

  • If you spot something you would like to buy, start with estimating what it would cost you at home. Make a point of not spending more on it than that.

  • Even if you want to pay in Egyptian money, you may want to do your bidding in your own currency. This will give you a better feel for what is actually transpiring. You can let them do the arithmetics: they are quite good at that.

Bargaining
Before you start bargaining, you should be certain of the starting point: the price that the salesman asks . This may seem a completely needless statement of the obvious, but it isn't.

In a gallery of shops, I once voiced interest in some drawings on papyrus. My friendly and helpful salesman quickly supplied me with a spoken price tag: "Twenty pounds, just twenty pounds. If you take more, I will even give you a discount!" It was a bit more than I had in mind, but that's what bargaining is for, so I dug really deep into his pile of papyri, to select a few that I really liked. But when I made my opening bid, the shop keeper wailed in dismay: that was no fair price!... So it turned out that those twenty "pounds" per papyrus that he had spoken of, were "Nubian pounds": each something over four Egyptian pounds. Bargaining against an unexpected factor of four quickly proved useless - so I had wasted my time.

On several locations, tourists that are leaving a site are carefully maneuvered in a funnel along a row of little shops or stands. So too at the Valley of the Kings. Kids came to me, with small figurines in their hands, shouting: "Four! Four! See: only four!" Four pounds? That's cheap... So, not without some suspicion, I ask: "Pounds?" "Yes, pounds!" "Egyptian pounds?" "Yes, Egyptian pounds. Come, come..." and I was practically dragged into a shop. But when it came to paying the bill, "four" suddenly proved to be short for "four hundred". Which turned the bargain from "really cheap" to "outrageous, ludicrous, a rip-off." So off I went - with the kid tagging along, pleading all the way till the parking lot, taking ten pounds off his price per step, completely failing to see that my mood of frustration and anger was totally sincere - and that he wasn't going to sell me something now for any price.

The least you should be able to achieve, is to get a discount of one third. Suppose that something is offered to you for € 30,-, then this means that € 20,- should be easily attainable. Start with offering 10, and then slowly rise till 17,- or 18,-. On that point, you harden your position, until the merchant finally arrives at your target: 20,- Then you graciously grant him a victorious conclusion.

A common merchant's reaction, when you start bargaining, is to say something like this: "Oh, I'm sorry, I thought you probably didn't want to go through the bargaining routine, so I gave you a fair price straightaway..." While saying this, he makes sure to look really hurt: hurt by your totally unjustified mistrust. Just ignore this, shake your head, and say something like: "No no, your price is way too high," and give him a new offer: only slightly higher than your previous one...
A related approach is this one: "Business is so slow today, I will just give you a very good price, for it is better to sell something, than nothing..." Very clever: the man gives you a strong impression of being totally sincere and honest, and he appeals to your latent feelings of guilt. After all, he knows that you know that you are filthily rich, compared to him.

Another dealer's favorite is, somewhere in the bargaining process: "Give me your best price!.." Which suggests of course that he knows you have still some room to improve on your bid. So disappoint him: "No really, I already gave you my best price!..."

During my last visit, I achieved my best bargaining result ever almost accidentally. I was in a shop, buying some postcards. Then I saw a small sculpture of a cow's head, something like the one that in Tutankhamun's tomb stood in front of the canopic chest. I asked the man for its price - which was way too high: 250 Egyptian pounds. We haggled a bit, but we weren't getting anywhere. It was already late, I was tired, and I hated the prospect of a long bargaining session. So I said that I was just going to take the postcards. I already knew that those were going to cost me 30 pounds. Then the man, seeing that I was really going to leave his shop, suddenly said: "All right, give me 100, and you can take the cow as well." Which meant that the price for the figurine had suddenly dropped from 250 to 70... It now stands right in front of me, pretty and well.

New developments
Gradually, some new developments can be observed. As more and more Egyptians travel, especially to Europe, there is more of an understanding growing of how tourists would like to be treated. Some shops actually advertise themselves as "hassle-free". Which means that you can look around in the shop without immediately being pounced on. Sometimes, there are even price tags on the articles. And completely contrary to my expectations, shops in hotels sometimes offer prices that are considerably below those in the bazaar.
But even when the merchants better there ways, the merchandise remains very much the same...




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